GEARBOX

Subject: GEARBOX REMOVAL (Crabbing the frame)

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999
From: Pete Roper

It's worth noting that on the Tonti framed models many people separate the main frame from the bottom rails to extract the gearbox.  

If only the gearbox and/or clutch need attention a better proposition is to 'Crab' the frame.  

To achieve this first remove the swingarm, framebolts and the plate that locates the gearbox to the frame BUT leave in-situ the long bolt that goes through the timing chest. Once the bolt that locates the centrestand to the gearbox is removed the stand collapses so make sure the engine is supported on something before you remove it.  

Now with the front wheel removed it is possible to pivot the main frame on the front engine bolt, lifting it until the gearbox is accessible. Once it is high enough secure it by stuffing a bit of wood between the upper framerail and one of the cylinder heads.  

You now have access to the gearbox to remove it and the clutch once the gearbox is off.  

While lifting the frame make sure that all wires and cables are released or have enough slack not to stretch themselves.  

Once the gearbox is replaced the frame can be lowered back into position with a bit of judicious wiggling and prying and it saves farting about wheeling frames about!!!!  

Subject: CLUTCH SLIP

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999
From: Peter Roper

John Ferg asked;
Why does the clutch slip on the Monza when it's being flogged hard, ie; at and above 7 grand when it doesn't slip at 5?  

I can only asume that although it probably produces max torque at around 5 1/2 it still produces a fair bit at 7 and because the power peaks around here this is what is causing the slippage.

When did it last get a new clutch? Has it ever had one? My guess is that the fingers on the diaphragm are a bit tired and the plate is probably approaching it's wear limit. The obvious answer is to pull it off and have a looksee. Broken fingers on the diaphragm are not unknown, especially on high mileage bikes but you can usually hear them, if only intermittently sometimes, as they clatter about around the pressure plate.

The arm on the back of the box is adjusted right?

There's no oil seeping from the bottom of the bell-housing I take it?

I'm afraid it sounds like a 'Box-off' job. But you wanted to check the unijoint anyway didn't you? ;-)

Internal Component Pics of Standard (Helical gears) & Close Ratio (Straight Cut)