See also additional info on Gearbox Removal

SUBJECT: Clutch Removal (and gearbox)
DATE: 10/11/01
FROM: Raf Dedal

Max asked;

> Ta-Ra told me the very same thing about not re-using bent or warped centre plates.

> OK Raf, you have done this job twice, what was your method of attack?

> > Cheers,

> Motomax

I'll be as brief (ha!) as I can.

ENGINE PROP STAND
Firstly you will need some sort of short stand to prop under the engine as both wheels will need to be off the ground, reasons explained later. Roughly milk crate height will do (higher is better) but don't use one, they won't hold the weight, no I didn't try this thanks. I fabricated a stand out of 25mm square tube with a removable top of 4x2 timber butted together. About 3 cement blocks should also work or anything that is solid. You will also need some strapping/ropes to secure the bike, this will stop it falling off the prop stand.

AID TO LIFTING
A decent pulley around 2", preferably a double wheel type, strong rope to suit and a short chain and U bolt lock to secure to garage roof rafters. These items will be used to help you lift the bike up if you haven't got a suitable jack and also doubles as a securing device to stop the frame coming down and mousetrapping you between the gearbox. Alternatively a length of 4 x 2 can be positioned between the rocker covers and under the frame. We are aiming to crab/hinge the frame here.

Once all the bodywork etc are removed the bike is much lighter and lifting it ain't that hard. Two people can lift the rear high enough to position over the prop. I was on my own so the pulleys made it sweat free.

Now comes the easy part (Haynes manual comes in handy here - plates, bolts, electrics and frame are basically the same on all models - not sure about the *non* Tonti based frame jobbies though.

WEIGHT REDUCTION
1) Remove all bodywork, crashbars, pannier racks and exhaust system, your screen can stay on, it won't get in the way, but remove if you are safety conscious, an accidental tip over can damage the screen and them things are expensive (I should know I bought a full screen for my Cali III once). Removal of the aforementioned bits will reduce weight and makes handling easier.

2) Disconnect speedo and tacho from the engine side, secure out of the way.

3) Diconnect control cables

a) Disconnect throttle cables from fuelling device (carbs etc.), secure out of the way.
b) Disconnect clutch cable from gearbox lever.

4) Disconnect all electricals to the engine, eg. neutral switch, oil pressure switch, starter/solenoid, and ignition.

5) Remove battery & earth lead to plate under the battery

HEAVY WORK
Whatever method you choose, jack, ropes/pulley or use people power to lift the rear of the bike high enough to slide the engine prop under the bike. Secure with ropes to stop the bike falling over, handlebars as a strapping point is good. Once bike is up on the prop do the following.

6) Remove rear wheel

7) Remove shocks

8) Remove footpeg hangers (Cali footboards can stay.)

9) Disconnect brake lever rod (lever can stay)

10) Disconnect gearshift mechanism from lever (lever can stay)

11) Remove centrestand

12) Remove bevel box from swingarm (makes lighter work)

13) Remove rear brake caliper from swingarm and secure to bike.

14) Remove swing arm

15) FRAME BOLTS

a) Take tension off front engine bolt (do not remove!)
b) Remove the short bolt securing the front lower frame tube from the lower frame tube
c) Ensure footpeg support bolts are removed (see 8).
d) Remove rear engine bolt (under gearbox)
e) Remove plate under battery (4 bolts)

Crabbing/hingeing. (A levering device may be required.)

16) Separate the top frame from the lower frame rail by lifting, if gearbox/engine and lower frame rails lift up with it you can try the following;

Insert a levering device eg. jimmy bar, between the rear of the lower frame tube and top frame (end of horizontal brace). Lever up gently, repeat on other side. WARNING: This can mark the paint! If still stubborn check you have removed necessary bolts securing the frames together eg. battery plate bolts.

NOTE: If you still have trouble getting the frame up high enough remove the front wheel for extra clearance. Lift high enough to rest the end of the forks on the ground (put something beneath to protect the alloy).

17) Once the top frame has separated from the lower frame you can

a) support it either with rope via the rafters

or

b) with a length of 4" x 2" across the top of the rocker boxes.

The latter method offers a stable and secure hold.

18) Remove all nuts around the bellhousing, starter motor comes off first, then pull gearbox out past the studs. The gearbox is heavy but can be easily managed by one person.

CLUTCH REMOVAL

1) Remove the bolts around the starter ring gear (large toothed disc). If you find the flywheel turns making bolt removal difficult you can try the following;

a) Using the S shaped tool for hub removal position it so it locks against a stud and a tooth on the ring gear. Ideal as a prelude to the next step.

and/or

b) Use approximately a 100mm length of flat steel with a 9mm hole drilled in both ends, this tool is fitted to one stud on the crankcase and the other end use a suitable bolt to fit in one of the holes inside of the existing bolts on the ring gear. There is no need to try and thread the bolt, it just has to fit into the hole. Proceed to remove *one* bolt. Other devices some have found successful are long enough ring spanners (size of ring not important, bigger is better - length is the most important) and angle iron.

c) Using the same tool use the removed bolt as a replacement for the above step and secure into hole it came from. Remove the remainder of the bolts.

2) Remove top friction plate, intermediate plate and another friction plate, take note of the position of the higher edge of the splined centre piece on the friction plate, it should always face AWAY from the engine.

3) Take note of the position of the spring plate position, set somewhere on the teeth is a machined dot. It should align with a TDC mark (line) on the flywheel.

CLUTCH REPLACEMENT

1) Reverse the dismantling procedure.

TIP: take the opportunity to clean the splines in the flywheel, then lube lightly with graphite grease, an old toothbrush is suffice.

2) Take note when refitting the springplate that it aligns with the flywheel TDC mark which should also align with a mark on the rear of the crankcase.

3) Fit the friction plates with the raised centre-piece AWAY from the engine.

4) To align the components use the special "Clutch Tool" as incorrectly aligned plates will near gaurantee a bent intermediate plate when you start tightening the ring gear bolts. If the Clutch Tool is not available remove the splined hub from the gearbox to help align. To remove the hub see separate tools that you can make.

WARNING: If you here a metallic clang, it's too late, the int. plate is bent and damaged. Best to replace as it will wear your friction materials unevenly (chamfer) and cause sticking etc.

5) Before the gearbox is replaced ensure the thrust piece is fitted.

6) All is done, reassemble the bike.

Raf