DtpaKiller Headphone Amp


(click for larger version, 200kb)

Parts list -

Qty Value Device Mouser Parts No.
10 1k
1206 .1%
71-TNPW12061K00BETY
2 10k
1206 .1%
71-TNPW120610K0BETY
2 499k
1206 .1%
71-TNPW1206499KBETY
2 1k8
1206 1%
71-CRCW1206-1.8K
2 200 ohm
1206 1%
71-CRCW1206-200
4 .1uf
5mm leaded film
505-mkm20.1/100/5
2 10ohm
7.5mm leaded
66-RC55-D-10
1 3k3 led resistor
1/2W
660-cf1/2l332j
8 ceramic smd
1206
80-c1206c152k5g
2 tantalium 16v 10uf
2.5mm 
80-t350e106k016
2 electrolytic 16v
13mm
647-upw1c332mhh6
2 electrolytic 25v
18mm
647-uvr1e682mha
1 ALPS BLUE 50k log pot
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-
2 heatsink for voltage regs
-
-
4 diode
MUR810
625-FES8BT
1 TPA6120
TPA6120
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2 ad8610 or opa637
ad8610 or opa637
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1 led
LED5MM
638-383-2SUBCC470S
1 lm317t
LM317TS
512-LM317T
1 lm337t
LM337TS
512-LM337T
1 6.3 x 4.06 x 2.09 Clear Anodized
Hammond case
546-1455N1601
1 Gold plated BLACK
RCA
164-4321
1 Gold plated RED
RCA
164-4325
1 240v IEC plug
-
161-0707-1
1 Neutric 1/4" headphone jack
-
568-NJ3FP6C
1 DPDT rocker switch
-
612-RR3130B
1 12-0-12v or 15-0-15v, center tapped or dual secondary transformer, >= ~150mA
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This is a basic guide to what to fill the board with and any of your own variations to what’s listed is entirely left up to you

A few considerations need to be taken, first the alps blue pot sits at the back of the board and a pot extension will be needed to extend to the front of the case, my intentions are to cannibalize a cheap pot ripping it apart leaving just the shaft and the bush (part that bolts onto the case with shaft coming through) and putting some rod in between this at the pot shaft to extend it and provide support going through the case. An alternative and premade solution is to get all the parts from here- http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p100.htm .
The tpa6120 has a power pad that need’s to be soldered to the board for heat sinking, the easiest way I’ve found to do that it to apply some solder to the chips pad as well as the pad on the board, top and bottom making sure there is ample on both. Next solder one length of the pins to the board making sure it goes on square and I the right spot then it’s an easy task to heat the bottom of the boards pad and apply some pressure to the chip until it slides in flush with the board when the solder flows together. Now just solder the other side and you’re done :)
The rest of the board doesn’t require much explanation. Good luck and have fun