DtpaKiller Headphone Amp


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Parts list -
| Qty | Value | Device | Mouser Parts No. |
| 10 | 1k | 1206 .1% |
71-TNPW12061K00BETY |
| 2 | 10k | 1206 .1% |
71-TNPW120610K0BETY |
| 2 | 499k | 1206 .1% |
71-TNPW1206499KBETY |
| 2 | 1k8 | 1206 1% |
71-CRCW1206-1.8K |
| 2 | 200 ohm | 1206 1% |
71-CRCW1206-200 |
| 4 | .1uf | 5mm leaded film |
505-mkm20.1/100/5 |
| 2 | 10ohm | 7.5mm leaded |
66-RC55-D-10 |
| 1 | 3k3 led resistor | 1/2W |
660-cf1/2l332j |
| 8 | ceramic smd | 1206 |
80-c1206c152k5g |
| 2 | tantalium 16v 10uf | 2.5mm |
80-t350e106k016 |
| 2 | electrolytic 16v | 13mm |
647-upw1c332mhh6 |
| 2 | electrolytic 25v | 18mm |
647-uvr1e682mha |
| 1 | ALPS BLUE 50k log pot | - |
- |
| 2 | heatsink for voltage regs | - |
- |
| 4 | diode | MUR810 |
625-FES8BT |
| 1 | TPA6120 | TPA6120 |
- |
| 2 | ad8610 or opa637 | ad8610 or opa637 |
- |
| 1 | led | LED5MM |
638-383-2SUBCC470S |
| 1 | lm317t | LM317TS |
512-LM317T |
| 1 | lm337t | LM337TS |
512-LM337T |
| 1 | 6.3 x 4.06 x 2.09 Clear Anodized | Hammond case |
546-1455N1601 |
| 1 | Gold plated BLACK | RCA |
164-4321 |
| 1 | Gold plated RED | RCA |
164-4325 |
| 1 | 240v IEC plug | - |
161-0707-1 |
| 1 | Neutric 1/4" headphone jack | - |
568-NJ3FP6C |
| 1 | DPDT rocker switch | - |
612-RR3130B |
| 1 | 12-0-12v or 15-0-15v, center tapped or dual secondary transformer, >= ~150mA | - |
- |
This is a basic guide to what to fill the board with and any of your own variations to what’s listed is entirely left up to you
A few considerations need to be taken, first the alps blue pot sits at the
back of the board and a pot extension will be needed to extend to the front
of the case, my intentions are to cannibalize a cheap pot ripping it apart leaving
just the shaft and the bush (part that bolts onto the case with shaft coming
through) and putting some rod in between this at the pot shaft to extend it
and provide support going through the case. An alternative and premade solution
is to get all the parts from here- http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p100.htm
.
The tpa6120 has a power pad that need’s to be soldered to the board for
heat sinking, the easiest way I’ve found to do that it to apply some solder
to the chips pad as well as the pad on the board, top and bottom making sure
there is ample on both. Next solder one length of the pins to the board making
sure it goes on square and I the right spot then it’s an easy task to
heat the bottom of the boards pad and apply some pressure to the chip until
it slides in flush with the board when the solder flows together. Now just solder
the other side and you’re done :)
The rest of the board doesn’t require much explanation. Good luck and
have fun
